It’s no secret that I love the details in haute couture garments. Nothing would make me happier than spending time up close and personal with a dress that has been intricately (and lovingly) beaded and embroidered by a team of artisans in a Parisian atelier. Sigh.
I waited until Thursday evening to start viewing the collections and making my selection because I wanted to spend a good chunk of time oohing and aahing over the photos. I expected the decision to be tough – how on earth would I whittle down my selections?!
But as it turns out, this Couture season in Paris left me underwhelmed. I was shocked.
Yes, there were many gorgeous gowns, covered in lace and embroidery and beading. The craftsmanship was wonderful. But very few pieces actually brought a “wow” to my lips. I found myself sitting at my computer with a very short list of favourites, and a very long list of commentary about collections that hadn’t worked for me.
Chanel? Haven’t we seen that dishevelled Miss Haversham look before?
Giambattista Valli? They went for dewy with the makeup and ended up with clammy.
Maison Martin Margiela? Didn’t Hussein Chalayan do the masked model thing back in the 90s?
Elie Saab was gorgeous Elie Saab as usual. Ulyana Sergeenko was true to her own sense of style and heritage (and it was nice to see here as a designer, rather than as a fashion photographer street style favourite). Valentino? Beautiful, but predictable.
At the end of it all, if I could have Just One piece from the Couture SS13 collections, it would be:
Photo credit Vogue.fr
The woven shift dress from French designer Christophe Josse. I love that it’s detailed without being fussy, and that the modernity of the lines works well with the intricacy of the craftsmanship.
Josse is relatively new to the Haute Couture world, having been admitted to the syndicat in 2011. His collection, which I viewed at Vogue.fr, had a nice mix of detailing and I think that it would translate well for wear by several age groups and even body types. Most importantly, I like that his collection wasn’t all evening gowns. Yes, they are a great medium to show off the work of the ateliers, but I think that being able to incorporate that same level of luxury into a – dare I say – ‘everyday’ garment shows a sophistication in design.
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What are your thoughts on the collections? If you had to pick Just One of the pieces, which would it be?
love it. great pick.
LOVED VALENTINO ALSO!!
xx Domenic
stylehuntingclub.com
To be honest I was viewing a few pieces from the Chanel shoe and Dior (Dior was my fave) and it looked more like RTW than Couture so, yeah I can definitely understand your disappointment.
Hi Arash –
I think you hit the nail on the head – it did feel very RTW. And don’t get me wrong, I’m a fan of RTW…but not when I’m expecting to be blown away by the glamour and theatrics of couture.
Kinda made me miss the Galliano-era Dior – now that was spectacle!
Dev
Love this review on the collections, I generally agree with everything you said. If I had to choose on piece I think it would be the pink pleated chiffon top from Alexis Mabille.